Puppies can learn from the age of eight weeks but have a short attention span. The best age to socialise a puppy is between 3 and 12 weeks. Anything learned at this age is learned permanently.

Early learning and socialisation can help prevent behavioural problems in later life, provided that the learning is positive, reward based and controlled.

The origins of puppy socialisation classes began in the States. Those very early classes were simply"puppy free-for-alls" and as owners and trainers stood by, puppies careered around the room in the name of "socialisation", with shy and sensitive pups being bullied and set upon by more confident puppies. This type of uncontrolled interaction could often continue for up to an hour or so, and produced puppies that grew into unmanageable dogs.

Whilst some puppies are naturally boisterous, others are naturally sensitive. We now know that care should be taken to ensure that puppy interaction is controlled to ensure that puppies learn canine manners and don't learn to become boisterous unmanageable adolescents and adults.

Puppies who indulge in boisterous unlimited play with other puppies at a "puppy-free-for-all-class" can become uncontrollable to the point of being aggressive towards other dogs, as they grow up. In my puppy socialisation and training classes, puppy interaction is fair, controlled, and suitable for both shy and bold puppies.

Ideally, a puppy class should consist of about interaction with other puppies, both on and off lead, and training, also on and off lead. On lead socialisation it vitally important, as it can prevent "lead aggressive dogs" in later life.

It isn't imperative to attend a puppy class to socialise and train your new puppy. There are many opportunities to familiarise your puppy in a normal environment, which of course is the real world in which your puppy will live. Avoid long distance walks with a very young puppy. Long walks can be harmful to growing bones and joints. Instead, concentrate on different, shorter walks, with plenty of variety. Avoid doing the "walk round the block by the clock" every day. Use your imagination! Your puppy needs to experience new sights, sounds, and scents every single day.

Take tiny food rewards on your walks, and get your puppy to sit or down from time to time. Not just when you cross the road, but in all sorts of different situation. Over time this will teach your puppy to focus on you if you ever come across difficult situations.

PRE-PUPPY ADVICE

There are many things to consider when thinking of taking a puppy into your life. Cute puppies grow into lively and demanding adolescents before settling down in to maturity! Maturity doesn't always mean "trained". Mature dogs can still present problems unless training has been given in your pup's early months.

What is the right breed for you? Most people choose a dog on appearance, size and colour, but temperament and character should be the first consideration. It's a good idea to get to know the grown up version of the puppy that you might be thinking about. Talk to as many people as possible about your particular favourite breed. Pay particular attention to any possible inherited health problems and ask if your puppy's parents have been screened. Your breeder and vet will be able to help with this.

Smaller dogs aren't always easier dogs. The terriers can be feisty and lively but trainable in the right hands. The elderly who require a small companion may not find the terriers to their liking, whereas a retired racing greyhound might be exactly the right dog, but may not have been considered, because of the size and the ability to "chase". Retired greyhounds can make lovely, trainable companions and with common sense and supervision won't be a problem around cats or other small furry animals.

There are differences in character within the same breed and even within litter mates. Some are shy, some are bold and there can be nervous or anxious types - features inherited from their parents, grandparents and other ancestors.

Choose a breed that appeals, but also think about a breed's origins. All breeds were originally designed to work and will need an outlet for his natural, inherited working ability.

Outlets for the average dog's natural working ability can be something as simple as being taught to retrieve a toy, but also think about other variations, and use your imagination:

• Find the "lost" toy. Get your dog to "find" a hidden toy or food treat. Hide in simple places at home at first. Then make things gradually more difficult.
• Hide and Seek. Hide yourself! Get someone to restrain your dog and hide somewhere at home, then in the garden, then out on walks, but in safe areas. Always reward your dog with something better than a "Good Dog!". A piece of cooked sausage is more valuable to a dog, than words of praise!
• Teach your dog to go "down" quickly on command from time to time, when he/she least expects it. Keep your dog guessing!
• In the hot summer months put a floating dog toy (Kong?) into a bucket of water as though apple bobbing. See if your dog can get it out! Much fun, but your dog does need to be trained to be "toy orientated". Indeed, I train my dogs to be "toy crazy".
• When feeding your dog, hide the bowl in different areas of your home. It all helps to make life interesting, and teaches your dog to think. Your dog doesn't always have to be fed in the same corner of the kitchen every day!